Let's define petulant
I am sure that Bruni carries a great deal of influence in a city like New York. And perhaps he is wrong in his assesment of Kobe Club. The way to handle that, however, is to create a dialogue with your customers and ask whether they agree or disagree, take their input, and use their impressions to create a better restaurant and more customers.
That's a lot harder work than simply paying for an ad in the Times, however.